In pursuit of the slowest express in Europe

The distance between Thusis and St. Mortiz is only 60 kilometres – one would say that it’s just a stone’s throw. However, the Albula Railway needs one hour and a half to cover this short and even trivial way. Sounds peculiar? Or maybe it is incredible if we say that this track in packed with 55 viaducts and 39 tunnels. Moreover the railway track isn’t straight at all, of course, apart from the 5-kilometre tunnel. The elevation difference between the first and the last station is only 1077 metres. We’d like to invite you for a brief trip in which we’re going to follow The Glacier Express – the slowest express in Europe.

Our tour is divided into three parts. The first one is a walking route from Laax to a canyon named Ruinaulta, exactly to Il Spir which is a viewing platform located above the bend of The Rhine. The second part is a car ride through Albula Pass to St. Mortiz where one can find the most alluring section of the railway line and finally we come back through The Julier Pass.

Our extremely convenient and easy route begins in Laax. The trail goes through the peaceful forest, between two lakes and that is why it is a perfect spot for a Sunday walk with a pushchair or (as it was in our case) for people who suffer from sore muscle after Saturday’s physical effort. Strolling like a couple of pensioners among moss or flowers, we are unwinding in pleasant shadow of trees while listening to birds tweeting above our heads.

To be honest, Lag la Cauma, a turquoise lake, is an enormous swimming zone surrounded by fence. The colour of water and the closest area are sufficient reasons to pay a few francs in order to enjoy a pure delight. Finding a remote and shady place is a piece of cake. However, our dreams still seem to be behind the fence.

We get to Il Spir, a viewing platform which hangs 400 metres above the gorge. This is an excellent spot that allows to admire the magnificent bend of the Rhine, which resembles a snake moving between white rocks. Only several metres above the surface of water is a railway track used by red trains heading towards Zermatt every quarter.

The Conn Restaurant, a well-known place praised for local specialties, seems to look encouragingly. When we finally enter the restaurant it is obvious that without booking a table there is no chance to be served, especially in a hot day. Maybe next time. But then only dry provisions kept in our rucksacks and a bench overlooking a gorge have to satisfy us.

Trasa ma równo 10km

The construction of this particular part of a narrow-gauge railway took five years (from August 1898 to July 1903). The most spectacular part is comprised of curves around Preda and the Landwasser viaduct of the arch length of 136 metres which hangs 65 metres above the river valley. The track leads directly to the tunnel.

After leaving Preda you aren’t going to see the express anymore since it enters a 5-kilometre tunnel. But we were heading towards the pass at an elevation of 2,315 m above the sea level so as to get to St Moritz. The views were truly mountainous.

We had only fifteen minutes to visit St. Moritz, the last stop of the Glacier Express. Unfortunately, we can’t say anything more than emotionless and meaningless ‘nice.’ We just saw a lake, green surroundings, a Romanesque belfry next to the Romanesque little church and some mountains in the background. There was no more time for sightseeing. Sadly, a watch and our tiredness were relentless.

The Julier Pass is parallel to the Albula Pass. It’s shorter and located a little bit lower that’s why it seems to be less severe. And that was the end of the landscapes for us. Two more hours left to reach Zurich.